Exceptional geographical and geological conditions.
After Trapani, its salt marshes and its exceptional olive oil, our culinary journey continues to the east of Sicily, in the town of Bronte. Located in the Province of Catania, its reputation is based above all on its geographical characteristics. Indeed, Bronte is perched on the heights of Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe, included on the UNESCO heritage list. It is the very presence of this fiery mountain which gives its land all its richness and singularity. Very mineral, hot and arid, it has all the favorable conditions for the growth of several plantations. Among these, the pistachio tree is certainly the most representative and the most indigenous.
The Bronte pistachio tree, a unique spectacle.
“We don't know exactly when it dates back, but its presence in the region would be several centuries old,” confides Emma, happy owner and operator of a plot of pistachio trees, located just opposite the imposing north-west slope. of Etna, on which the Simeto river also has its source. Emma, who lived and worked in Milan, the economic capital of Italy, decided to leave everything to return to her native cradle and take over the family heritage. The provenance of the pistachio tree also remains mystical, Persian, Arab, Phoenician... it is difficult to determine with precision its founding people, except that it certainly came from the Near East. Around 900 AD BC the Arabs landed in Sicily, and more precisely in Marsala, this remains the most plausible path today. Sensing the potential of these lands and the similarities with their own, these travelers of yesteryear decided to graft pistachio plants onto local trees. Their intuition proved correct, since the Bronte pistachio tree quickly became fertile, and today it is considered the most prestigious and qualitative in the world. Visually, the show is also there. On the winding road that takes us to Emma's property, we stop on the side of the road to pick up fragments of black magma littering the ground, evidence of past eruptions of the volcano. On site, the shape of the pistachio trees appeals to us. The latter, due to steep and steep terrain, were able to adapt by developing a branch with ramifications as imposing as they are surprising. Due to the aridity of the soil, their root system is just as astonishing. Capable of planting itself very deep in the ground to draw water, it requires no artificial irrigation. Its thick plant is also resinous, recalling the texture and scent of eucalyptus or even incense, linking it once again to its oriental ancestors. The pistachio is made up of three layers: the flower, the shell, and the fruit. At the beginning of its growth, its flower takes on a bright purple color, then gradually fades, going from light pink to opaque white, synonymous with complete maturation.
We visit Emma in the first days of September, just a few days before the picking. A rare event, since it only occurs every other year. Indeed, the pistachio tree is productive in a so-called biennial manner, which makes it all the more rare and precious. This year, the harvest will be fruitful, thanks to the abundant rain and the slope which protects from excessive exposure to the sun, which has been particularly virulent in recent years during the summer period.
To Mori, in all its forms.
At Mori Venice Bar , the pistachio comes exclusively from Bronte and Emma's estate. The latter strives to produce in the most natural way possible. No input or artificial watering, and a harvest made only with the meticulousness of the hands.
In our ice creams with its paste, in our pastries with its cream, or in our whole fruit dishes (sea bass carpaccio, pasta, etc.), we use it and present it in all its forms.
MORI’s , our takeaway and delivery site, also offers it as a spread , or as a pesto , ideal to accompany a pastry. Recently, in exclusive collaboration with Albero Galluffo, pistachio- flavored olive oil has also been offered, as a symbol of sacred union between the east and west of Sicily.
